Installing A Water Softener
The most prevalent cause of appliance, kettle, and water boiler failure is hard water, often known as limescale. Limescale removal is a difficult task that can become practically impossible if left too late. The most efficient form of descaling is not descaling. Drinking water filters come in a range of shapes and sizes. A water softener installed at the main water inflow to your home is the best defense against limescale build-up for your appliances and house plumbing. Water softeners can cost anywhere from 300 to 700 pounds, depending on the size of your family.
Creating a Plan for Your Installation Always follow the rules of the water. Ascertain that there is just one water supply and that there is sufficient space to access the unit for salt filling and future maintenance. Examine the water pressure and look for a main water supply stop cock, a drain, and a power source to which the gadget can be connected.
Check the water pressure in your home. It is vital to monitor the pressure. The softener might be damaged or malfunction if the water pressure is too low or too high. Although the softener has been pressure tested, if your pressure exceeds 5 bar, it is suggested that you install a pressure restriction (70 psi) Any water appliance should come with a leak controller.
The softener is being installed right now. This should be as close to the water supply main as practicable. The use of hard water takeoff points for a drinking water facility and/or an outside tap should be done with caution. Freshwater can be acquired by using the kitchen’s cold water tap as a supply of drinking water. If this isn’t possible, a filtered water kit with an easy DIY installation can be utilized instead. If the Stopcock is in an uncomfortable location and the water source is hard, I recommend installing a reverse osmosis system.
Maintain the shortest feasible distance between the drain and the Softener. Make sure the drain and overflow aren’t frozen and the temperature isn’t higher than 49 degrees Fahrenheit. If you’re going to put the softener in a cabinet, make sure the bottom is well supported. It’s advisable to install the softener in a 95-liter tank and properly insulate it if you’re going to put it in your loft or somewhere else. The tank’s overflow must be at least 3/4 inch in diameter and placed below the softener’s overflow.
A non-return valve is a type of non-return valve. A single check valve should be installed in single-family dwellings. Any plumbing supply store should have this item on hand.
To connect your input and output to the device, you’ll need two T valves, an isolator valve, and two flexible hoses.
Make sure the stopcock is in the closed position before beginning the valve installation
The softener is being connected at the moment. Close the intake and outlet valves before opening the bypass valve after you’ve finished installing the valves. The stop cock can now be safely reinstalled in the open position. Connect the softener’s intake and outlet flexible pipes. On the softener tails, the inlets and outlets should be labeled with the words inlet or outlet or an imprinted directional arrow. The waste outlet is usually in the middle of the softener tails, which are usually arranged in three parts.
A waste pipe is in the process of being installed. A waste hose is included with every softener, and in some cases, it’s already fitted. If this isn’t the case with your equipment, connect the softener drain connection to the connection fitting at the end of the supplied flexible tubing. Connect the drain hose to an upstand or an outdoor drain. At the drain line’s terminus, there must be a minimum air gap of 20mm. A septic tank is unaffected by softened water.
If you need to extend the drain line, connect it to a 15mm copper tube with a minimum daytime pressure of 40psi for a maximum run of 8 meters. The drain hose should not be kinked in any way to prevent the machine from overflowing. With a minimum pressure of 40 psi, the drain hose can flow uphill to a maximum of 3 feet.
A connection that allows for overflow. The overflow hose on the drainpipe should be unplugged. The white half-inch hose spigot on the rear or side of the cabinet is an overflow connector. This connection does not require the use of a clip. The overflow must be channeled downward without kinks or limitations through an outside wall. As it exits the outer wall, the overflow hose should be visible.
A power source is close by. While the electricity is turned off, connect the transformer to a continuous electrical connection source. Connect the transformer’s flying lead to the controller’s electrical connector. Make sure the flying lead doesn’t get caught in the machine’s camshaft or other moving parts.
Getting the softener up and running is the first step. It’s a good idea to fill the brine tank with about 5 liters of water now that all of the connections are in place. You can also add a pinch of salt to the tank at this time. Allowing the level of water softener salts in the brine tank to exceed the height of the overflow is not a good idea. The amount of salt used will be determined by the equipment. The brine tank should never run out of salt, and the salt levels should be checked regularly until you’ve established a usage pattern.
Getting the machine ready to use. Simply set the intake and output valve positions and turn off the bypass valve to start the machine.
This operation should be carried out in the order listed below
1. Open the Softener inlet valve to turn it on.
2, Close the bypass valve after turning it off. Wait around five minutes for the incoming water to reach a pressure level before going on to step 3.
3. Open the Softener outflow valve and turn it on.
You should now manually rebuild your system and complete any remaining programming instructions. At this point, a manual regeneration is performed to ensure that the unit is free of leaks caused by the installed valves and that the Waste is flowing freely. This regeneration will also assist in clearing the system of any potential airlocks.
During the regeneration, any internal meters or timers that control the frequency of the regeneration cycle will be reset. Your machine should now be providing soft water to your property. If you find the water to be overly soft. By slightly opening the bypass valve and allowing some hard water to mix with the soft, you can dilute the softness.